With its slate-rooved stone houses it looks like Scotland, but is in fact Roscoff, full of “Mussel & Chip” shops, boutiques selling Breton tops and artists’ cards. At Les Amants Jaunes (?!), the spinach & emmenthal crêpe is so delicious I give in and order another – caramel beurre salé, with just a hint of Chantilly. Heaven!